Welcome back to Watch World β Aevitas's ongoing series for serious watch enthusiasts. In this episode, we go deep on one of the most captivating subjects in horology: watch complications. What are they, how do they work, and why do the most complex ones command prices that rival fine art?
Whether you're a seasoned collector or simply fascinated by mechanical ingenuity, this guide will give you a thorough understanding of the complications that define the pinnacle of watchmaking.
What Is a Watch Complication?
In watchmaking, a complication is any function beyond the simple display of hours and minutes. The term comes from the French complication, and it has been used since the 18th century to describe the additional mechanisms that make a watch do more β and cost considerably more to produce.
Complications range from the relatively simple (a date display or a second time zone) to the extraordinarily complex (a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, or an equation of time). The most complicated watches in the world β such as the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 or the Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 β contain hundreds of individual complications working in concert.
For collectors who own multiple complicated timepieces, a quality watch winder is essential to keep every movement running accurately between wearings.
The Perpetual Calendar
The perpetual calendar is widely regarded as one of the most useful and impressive complications in watchmaking. A watch with a perpetual calendar automatically accounts for the different lengths of months β including February in leap years β without requiring manual adjustment.
The mechanism achieves this through a series of cams and levers that "know" the length of each month. A standard perpetual calendar only needs correcting once every four years (at the end of a century year that is not a leap year, such as 2100). Some modern perpetual calendars are programmed to handle even this exception automatically.
Notable perpetual calendar watches include the Patek Philippe Ref. 5327, the A. Lange & SΓΆhne Langematik Perpetual, and the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. These watches represent decades of refinement and are among the most sought-after pieces at auction.
The Minute Repeater
If the perpetual calendar is the most useful grand complication, the minute repeater is arguably the most magical. At the press of a slide or pusher, a minute repeater chimes the time acoustically β striking the hours, quarter hours, and minutes in sequence using tiny hammers and gongs inside the case.
The minute repeater was originally developed in the 17th century to allow people to tell the time in the dark. Today it serves no practical purpose whatsoever β and that is precisely why collectors love it. A minute repeater is pure horological theatre: a demonstration of craft, acoustics, and mechanical poetry.
The quality of a minute repeater's chime depends on the material of the case (titanium and gold produce very different sounds), the tension of the gongs, and the skill of the watchmaker who voiced the movement. Houses such as Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, and F.P. Journe are renowned for their minute repeaters.
The Equation of Time
The equation of time is one of the rarest and most intellectually fascinating complications in watchmaking. It displays the difference between mean solar time (the uniform time shown on a clock) and true solar time (the actual position of the sun in the sky).
Because the Earth's orbit is elliptical and its axis is tilted, the sun does not cross the meridian at exactly noon every day. The difference between clock time and sun time varies throughout the year, ranging from approximately β16 minutes (in early November) to +14 minutes (in mid-February). The equation of time complication displays this difference on a dedicated subdial or hand.
Watches featuring the equation of time include the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960P, the Breguet Classique Equation Marchante 7887, and the A. Lange & SΓΆhne Tourbograph Perpetual "Pour le MΓ©rite". These are among the rarest and most expensive watches in the world.
The Tourbillon: Revisited
We covered the tourbillon in depth in Watch World Episode 2, but it deserves mention here as one of the defining grand complications. Invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, the tourbillon places the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage to counteract the effects of gravity on timekeeping accuracy.
Modern tourbillons are often combined with other complications β perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and equations of time β to create what are known as grande complication watches: the absolute summit of the watchmaker's art.
Other Notable Complications
Chronograph β A stopwatch function integrated into the watch. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs can measure two simultaneous events. The A. Lange & SΓΆhne Datograph is considered by many to be the finest chronograph ever made.
Moon Phase β Displays the current phase of the moon. A true astronomical moon phase display is accurate to one day in 122 years. Brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe produce exceptional examples.
Power Reserve Indicator β Shows how much energy remains in the mainspring. Particularly useful for collectors with multiple watches who rotate their pieces regularly.
World Time β Displays the time in multiple cities simultaneously. The Patek Philippe World Time (Ref. 5230) is the definitive example of this complication.
Jumping Hours β The hour is displayed in a window and jumps instantaneously at the top of each hour, rather than moving gradually. Associated with independent makers such as F.P. Journe and De Bethune.
The Most Complicated Watches Ever Made
Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 β Completed in 2015 after eight years of development, this pocket watch contains 57 complications and 2,826 components. It remains the most complicated watch ever made.
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 β Created in 1989 to mark Patek's 150th anniversary, this pocket watch contains 33 complications and took nine years to develop. One example sold at auction for over $5 million.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie β A wristwatch containing 26 complications, including a grande sonnerie, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon. One of the most complex wristwatches ever produced.
Caring for Complicated Watches
Complicated watches β particularly those with perpetual calendars β should ideally never be allowed to stop. Resetting a perpetual calendar that has run down can be a delicate and time-consuming process, and doing it incorrectly risks damaging the mechanism.
For serious collectors with multiple complicated timepieces, a high-capacity watch winder is the most practical solution. Our Premium Automatic 24 Watch Winder with Touch Screen is designed precisely for this purpose β keeping up to 24 automatic watches running continuously, with individually programmable TPD settings for each position.
The touch screen interface allows you to set precise turns-per-day and rotation direction for every watch, ensuring that even the most sensitive movements β including those with power reserve complications β are wound to exactly the right specification. Explore our full range at aevitas-uk.co.uk/collections/watch-winders.
You May Also Like
If you're building a serious collection, you may also be interested in our watch winder safes β combining secure storage with continuous winding for the most valuable pieces in your collection.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most difficult watch complication to make?
The minute repeater is widely considered the most difficult complication to manufacture and voice correctly. It requires exceptional skill in acoustics, metallurgy, and micro-engineering.
Does a perpetual calendar ever need adjusting?
A true perpetual calendar only needs manual correction once every 100 years (at century years that are not leap years, such as 2100). Some modern perpetual calendars handle even this automatically.
What is the difference between a complication and a grand complication?
A grand complication traditionally refers to a watch that combines at least three major complications: a striking mechanism (such as a minute repeater), a chronograph, and a perpetual calendar. The term is used loosely today but retains its prestige.
Should I keep my complicated watch wound at all times?
Yes β particularly for perpetual calendars and other date-based complications. Allowing these watches to stop and then resetting them incorrectly can damage the mechanism. A quality watch winder is the best solution for collectors who rotate their pieces.
What TPD setting should I use for a watch with a perpetual calendar?
Most perpetual calendar watches use standard automatic movements and wind at between 650β950 TPD. Check our TPD settings database for your specific reference.
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