Watch World: Episode 9 — Underrated Watch Brands & Hidden Gems Every Collector Should Know

Welcome back to Watch World — Aevitas UK's series on the art, history, and obsession of fine watchmaking. Episode 8 covered vintage watch collecting. This episode goes beyond the obvious names — to the brands that the most knowledgeable collectors seek out, and that the mainstream market is only beginning to discover.

Why Look Beyond the Big Names?

Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet are extraordinary watchmakers. But the watch world is vastly larger than these three names suggest — and some of the most interesting, technically accomplished, and aesthetically distinctive watches being made today come from brands that most people have never heard of.

For the collector who has acquired their first Rolex or Omega and wants to go deeper, these are the brands worth knowing. They offer exceptional quality, genuine horological ambition, and — in many cases — better value for money than the mainstream luxury market. They are also, increasingly, the brands that the most sophisticated collectors are choosing over the obvious alternatives.

NOMOS Glashutte — German Modernism at Its Finest

NOMOS Glashutte was founded in 1990 in the Saxon town of Glashutte — the same town that is home to A. Lange & Söhne — and has become one of the most admired watch brands in the world among collectors who value design as much as engineering. Its watches are characterised by a spare, Bauhaus-influenced aesthetic: clean dials, elegant proportions, and a complete absence of unnecessary decoration.

What makes NOMOS remarkable is that it designs and manufactures its own movements — a feat that most brands at its price point do not attempt. The in-house DUW 3001 automatic calibre, with its distinctive swing system that replaces the traditional rotor with a pair of oscillating weights, is a genuine engineering achievement. NOMOS watches are priced from approximately £1,500 to £5,000 — extraordinary value for in-house manufacture of this quality.

The Tangente, Club, Orion, and Metro are the core references; the Tetra — a square-cased dress watch — is a particular favourite among design-conscious collectors.

H. Moser & Cie — The Contrarian's Choice

H. Moser & Cie is one of the most interesting watch brands in the world — and one of the most deliberately provocative. Founded in 1828 and revived in 2005, Moser has built a reputation for exceptional movement quality, extraordinary fumé dials, and a marketing approach that delights in subverting industry conventions.

The fumé dial — a dial that transitions from a deep, saturated colour at the centre to a lighter shade at the edges, creating a gradient effect — is Moser's most distinctive contribution to watchmaking aesthetics. In burgundy, green, blue, and salmon, these dials are among the most beautiful in the industry. The Endeavour collection, with its clean case and exceptional movement finishing, is the brand's flagship.

Moser's movements are made entirely in-house, including the mainspring — one of only a handful of brands that achieves this. The Perpetual Calendar, with its innovative mechanism that requires no correction for 577 years, is a particular technical achievement. Prices range from approximately £10,000 to £50,000.

Czapek — The Revival of a Forgotten Legend

François Czapek was Abraham-Louis Breguet's most talented apprentice and co-founded Patek Philippe — before leaving to establish his own brand in 1845. The original Czapek & Cie produced watches of extraordinary quality until 1869, when the brand disappeared. In 2015, a group of collectors and investors revived the name and began producing watches that honour the original's legacy.

The modern Czapek is defined by its Antarctique collection — a sports watch with a distinctive cushion case, exceptional dial colours, and an in-house movement developed in partnership with Chronode. The brand's approach — community-driven, transparent about its manufacturing, and genuinely passionate about its history — has attracted a devoted following among collectors who appreciate authenticity over marketing.

Ming — The Internet's Favourite Watch Brand

Ming is a Malaysian watch brand founded in 2017 by Ming Thein, a photographer and watch collector, in collaboration with Swiss movement specialist Schwarz Etienne. Its watches are designed with an obsessive attention to detail — every proportion, every finishing choice, every material selection is considered and documented in extraordinary depth on the brand's website and social media.

Ming watches are produced in very limited quantities — typically 300 to 500 pieces per reference — and sell out within hours of release. The secondary market premium is significant; many references trade at two to three times retail. The 17.06 and 19.01 are the most celebrated references; the 37.05 Copper is perhaps the most visually striking watch the brand has produced.

Kurono Tokyo — Japanese Minimalism

Kurono Tokyo was founded by Hajime Asaoka — one of Japan's most celebrated independent watchmakers — in 2018. Its watches are defined by a distinctly Japanese aesthetic: extreme restraint, exceptional finishing, and a design philosophy that owes more to traditional Japanese craft than to Swiss watchmaking convention.

The Kurono Tentagraph — a flyback chronograph with a movement designed and built entirely by Asaoka — is one of the most technically accomplished watches produced by any independent maker. Production is extremely limited; acquiring a Kurono requires joining a waiting list and demonstrating genuine collector credentials. Prices range from approximately £5,000 to £30,000.

Voutilainen — The Watchmaker's Watchmaker

Kari Voutilainen is a Finnish watchmaker working in Motélier, Switzerland, who is regarded by his peers as one of the finest craftsmen in the industry. His watches — produced in quantities of fewer than fifty per year — combine exceptional movement finishing with a distinctive aesthetic that draws on both Swiss and Finnish design traditions.

The Voutilainen Vingt-8 is his signature piece: a time-only watch with a movement finished to a standard that rivals anything produced by the grand maisons. A Voutilainen watch is not merely a timepiece; it is a demonstration of what one person, working with extraordinary skill and dedication, can achieve. Prices start at approximately £60,000 and rise significantly for complicated pieces.

Storing Your Hidden Gems

Underrated brands often produce watches in very limited quantities — which means condition is critical to value. A scratched crystal or polished case on a Ming or Czapek is not merely an aesthetic issue; it is a significant financial one.

A quality watch box with individual soft-lined compartments is essential for protecting limited-edition pieces. Our Premium 2 Watch Winder in Zebrano Ebony is a particularly fitting companion for watches from brands like NOMOS and Moser — its exceptional finish and quiet motor suit the understated character of these pieces perfectly. For the full collection, our watch box range offers sizes from 4 to 30 watches in finishes from carbon fibre to burl walnut.

For automatic pieces, use our TPD settings database to find the correct winder settings — NOMOS, Moser, and Czapek movements all have specific requirements that differ from the mainstream Swiss calibres.

You May Also Like

→ Premium Watch Winders — exceptional winding for exceptional watches.
→ All Watch Boxes — luxury storage for every collection.
→ TPD Settings Database — correct settings for every brand.
→ Watch World Episode 2 — independent watchmakers you need to know.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best underrated watch brand?
For value and design quality, NOMOS Glashutte is the standout recommendation — in-house movements, exceptional design, and prices that represent genuine value. For collectors seeking something more exclusive, H. Moser & Cie and Czapek offer extraordinary quality with a more distinctive character.

Are underrated watch brands a good investment?
Some — particularly Ming and Voutilainen — have demonstrated strong secondary market performance. However, the primary reason to buy from these brands should be appreciation of the watches themselves, not investment potential. Limited production and genuine collector demand are the factors that drive secondary market premiums.

Where can I buy NOMOS or H. Moser watches in the UK?
Both brands have authorised dealers in the UK. NOMOS is available through a network of independent retailers; H. Moser has a more limited dealer network. Both brands' websites list authorised retailers by country.

Do NOMOS watches need a watch winder?
NOMOS watches with the DUW 3001 or DUW 6101 automatic movements benefit from a watch winder when not worn regularly. The correct TPD setting is approximately 650–800 — check our TPD database for the exact specification for your reference.

When is Episode 10 of Watch World?
Episode 10 arrives on 16 August — exploring the world's most iconic watch designs and the stories behind them. Follow the Aevitas blog to stay updated.