Welcome back to Watch World — Aevitas's ongoing series for serious watch enthusiasts. In this episode, we explore the world's most important watch fairs and events — the annual gatherings where brands unveil their most significant new releases, collectors discover rare pieces, and the global watch community comes together.
Whether you're planning to attend in person or simply want to follow the action from home, understanding the watch calendar is essential for any serious collector.
Watches & Wonders Geneva
Watches & Wonders is the most important watch fair in the world. Held annually in Geneva each spring (typically late March to early April), it brings together the most prestigious names in Swiss watchmaking under one roof at the Palexpo exhibition centre.
The fair was originally known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), founded in 1991 by the Richemont group as an invitation-only alternative to Baselworld. It was rebranded as Watches & Wonders in 2020 and has since expanded significantly, now welcoming both trade visitors and, increasingly, members of the public.
Participating brands include Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, and many others. Each brand presents its new collection for the year, and the fair generates enormous media coverage and collector interest worldwide.
For collectors, Watches & Wonders is the moment when the year's most significant new references are revealed. Allocation watches — pieces produced in limited quantities and distributed through authorised dealers — are often announced here, and the fair sets the tone for the entire watch market for the year ahead.
The Legacy of Baselworld
For decades, Baselworld was the undisputed centre of the watch world. Held annually in Basel, Switzerland, it attracted hundreds of brands and tens of thousands of visitors from across the globe. At its peak in the early 2010s, Baselworld was the largest watch and jewellery fair in the world, with over 1,500 exhibitors and 100,000 visitors.
The fair's decline was swift and dramatic. The departure of the Swatch Group in 2019, followed by the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, proved fatal. Baselworld held its last edition in 2021 and was subsequently replaced by Time to Move, a smaller event that has struggled to recapture the original's prestige.
The legacy of Baselworld lives on in the releases it generated over the decades — including the original Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster, and countless other icons that were unveiled on its exhibition floor.
Independent Watch Fairs
As the major fairs have consolidated, a vibrant ecosystem of independent watch events has emerged to serve collectors who want something beyond the mainstream.
Salon QP — Held annually in London, Salon QP is the UK's premier watch event, bringing together independent watchmakers, established brands, and collectors in an intimate setting. It is particularly strong on British watchmaking and independent horology, and is an excellent event for collectors who want direct access to makers and brand representatives.
SalonQP / WatchPro Awards — Alongside the fair, the WatchPro Awards celebrate the best watches and retailers of the year, making it a significant event in the UK watch calendar.
Grand Seiko Events — Grand Seiko holds regular collector events and boutique openings worldwide, often featuring limited editions exclusive to the event. These are excellent opportunities to handle pieces that are rarely seen in standard retail environments.
F.P. Journe Invitational — The independent watchmaker F.P. Journe holds occasional collector events that are among the most exclusive in the industry. Attendance is by invitation only and pieces shown are often unique or produced in very small numbers.
Auction Previews and Sales
The major auction houses — Christie's, Sotheby's, Phillips, and Antiquorum — hold dedicated watch sales several times a year in Geneva, New York, Hong Kong, and London. These events are open to the public for viewing and represent some of the most important moments in the collector calendar.
The Geneva sales in May and November are the most significant, often featuring important single-owner collections and record-breaking results. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has become the dominant force in the market, regularly achieving the highest prices for rare and historically significant pieces.
Attending an auction preview is free and gives collectors the opportunity to handle pieces that would otherwise be inaccessible — including unique examples, prototype references, and watches from the collections of notable figures. Even if you have no intention of bidding, auction previews are among the most educational experiences available to a watch enthusiast.
Following the Watch Calendar from Home
For collectors who cannot attend events in person, the watch media provides comprehensive coverage of every major fair and auction. Key resources include:
Hodinkee — The most widely read English-language watch publication, with live coverage of all major events and in-depth reviews of new releases.
WatchPro — The leading UK trade and consumer watch publication, with strong coverage of the British market and Salon QP.
Revolution — Asia-Pacific focused, with excellent coverage of independent watchmakers and the Hong Kong and Singapore markets.
Brand YouTube channels — Most major brands now produce high-quality video content around their fair releases, giving collectors an immersive view of new pieces without leaving home.
Preparing Your Collection for Fair Season
Watch fair season is also an excellent time to review your collection — assessing what you have, what you might sell, and what new pieces you're considering. Keeping your automatic watches running correctly throughout the year means they're always ready to wear, compare, and show.
Our Premium 12 Watch Winder Zebrano Ebony is designed for exactly this kind of serious collection — keeping up to 12 automatic watches wound and ready, presented in a stunning zebrano and ebony wood cabinet that is as much a display piece as a functional winder. Explore our full range of watch winders to find the right solution for your collection.
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If fair season inspires you to expand your collection, make sure your storage keeps pace. Browse our watch boxes and watch winder safes for the full range of Aevitas storage solutions.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Watches & Wonders?
Watches & Wonders is the world's most prestigious watch fair, held annually in Geneva each spring. It brings together the leading Swiss watch brands to present their new collections for the year. It was formerly known as SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie).
Can members of the public attend Watches & Wonders?
Watches & Wonders has gradually opened to the public in recent years, with public days added to the trade-focused schedule. Check the official Watches & Wonders website for the latest ticketing information for each year's edition.
What happened to Baselworld?
Baselworld, once the world's largest watch fair, held its last edition in 2021 following the departure of major brands and the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. It has been replaced by smaller events, though none has yet recaptured its former scale or prestige.
What is the best watch event in the UK?
Salon QP, held annually in London, is the UK's premier watch event. It features independent watchmakers, established brands, and collector-focused programming, and is an excellent event for enthusiasts at all levels.
How do I follow watch fair releases if I can't attend?
Hodinkee, WatchPro, and the official brand websites and YouTube channels all provide comprehensive live coverage of major watch fairs. Most brands also stream their presentations and publish detailed release information online simultaneously with the fair opening.
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